Canonisation of John Henry Newman - 13th October 2019
DIARY OF A TRIP TO ISRAEL – 20 NOV-27 NOV 2014
Before the diary starts I have to say that if there was a Father Michael in every church, churches wouldn’t be empty for long. He is the kindest, nicest, most compassionate, caring, funny and wise man and brings credit to his priesthood.
Samir is our tour guide, a complex man who obviously “eats” books, knowledgeable, fascinating, infuriating, interesting little man.
Osaman – the Captain – our wonderful driver
Thursday 20th Nov
Work in the morning, but anxious to get away as the trip beckons. Still had packing to finish and last bits sorted before I could leave to stay overnight at Jo’s. After dinner with Liam and a last walk by me for a week for the dogs I said goodbye to Fulham and ready to start the adventure. Arriving at Jo’s after 8pm I settle down at the table for a chinwag with Marie and Gerry before they depart for home. Jo and I take the opportunity to chat until midnight!!!!!!!!! We so seldom get the chance to do this it was great to just catch up on everything. We hit the sack after midnight and all too soon it seemed it was time to get up and be on the road after a shower, a cuppa and a round of toast.
We met the group at William of York Church who were waiting for the coach. Father Michael comes out to say the coach has been delayed due to an accident on the motorway which was holding up traffic. So we sat in Maureen and Pat’s car chatting as Jo left to go home. Sad to see her go and wished she was coming too to complete the gang.
Finally the coach arrives and after loading up we set off for Luton. A reasonably quick drive until we reach the outskirts of the airport where traffic is heavy, yet still we make it in good time. Dragging our cases behind us we find the El Al security desks where an hour of interrogation ensues.
“when did you book this trip”? “do you know anyone in this group?” “did you pack your case yourself”? “where do you live”? “where are you going once in Israel and where will you be staying” and on it went. Then passport checks. Finally reaching the check in desk and a few more questions we are finally through!!! Maureen and I find a place to sit and have breakfast, all the while waiting for Marie and Gerry who’d had problems getting wheelchair assistance and were delayed an extra 40 minutes.
Soon it was time to board the plane which was on time thankfully for the 4hr 15 min flight. The day was feeling long already. We land at Ben Gurion airport at their time of 6.30pm we all feel like we’ve been up 24 hours, tired and needing a wash and a cuppa in no particular order! More passport control and finally into our coach with our guide and driver BUT we had to wait until nearly 8.15 before moving off as two more passengers were meeting our group and their plane wasn’t landing until 7.40!!!! Groans all round, but it’s all part and parcel of travel these days!!! So we sat and got to know each other and had a bit of a laugh.
Finally we set off for Jerusalem. Excitement building although we could see nothing in the darkness. Our guide introduced himself as Samir and our driver as Osaman – but to be called Captain. Samir turned out to be a most knowledgeable guide, full of history information, bible knowledge and a deep love for his torn country, even if a bit biased at times. We arrived at our “hotel” to a hot (well lukewarm really) meal waiting for us, and much needed, although we were fit to drop by now. The hotel is a convent run by the Comboni Sisters a group of smiling nuns who were kind, helpful and so sweet but as we found out as the days went on did not know how to deal with a big crowd of guests so often ran out of food and had to scrabble to get more on the table and did not know how to keep food hot. By the end of our trip we had got used to lukewarm food and slop for cups of tea, until I found the small kitchen where I made tea for us!!!!……….but more of this later.
Friday 21st Nov – a lot is achieved this day as we set of early, most of the sites within reach of the other, a very well planned day for us pilgrims by our guide and driver
Up early for breakfast as a long day ahead of us. As Maureen and I eat and chat over our cornflakes and cold scrambled egg, with no toast, we wonder where Marie and Gerry are. I get anxious and go up to their room. They are not up……gulp. The mobile phone time did not change and Marie thought she had another hour to get ready. After raising the alarm with her I ran back downstairs and got cups of tea and scrambled egg on a tray while they got ready as we by now only had about 20 minutes before we were off. Panic over and we were on the coach with only ten minutes over the time so all was well.
Most of today is spent in or on the Mount of Olive’s area. Our first stop was the church of the Pater Noster, the area believed to have been where Christ taught people the Our Father. A beautiful setting with the prayer in all languages around the wall. We got to know our guide as he walked us round and gave us a potted history. The sun was shining and the general feeling of a good trip ahead settled on us all. After the guided talk we then had time to wander alone taking photos. In this area we went to the Church of the Ascension, where Christ said goodbye to his disciples before ascending to heaven, in the small chapel there is purported to be the imprint of his foot.
After this those of that were able did the very steep walk down following the route of that first Palm Sunday procession when Jesus entered Jerusalem. We sang as we walked, this took our minds off the steep walk! Very heavy strain on the knees and calves!!1 Thankfully we did not have to walk back up!!! We did however continue the walk to a little church overlooking Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock, called Dominus Flevit (means Cry of the Lord). This church commemorates Christ’s tears at the thought of the destruction of Jerusalem, and is shaped like a tear drop, the church was commissioned by the Franciscans who have a hand in many of the churches in Christian Israel. The church is sited near the Garden of Gethsemane.
After a beautiful Mass in this chapel we then walked to the Garden of Gethsemane. Here the trees are 3000 years old, the bark is dead and are held up by poles, new growth from inside sprout out so the olive branches make the trees look alive. Here Pope Francis planted a new olive tree. Here at this important site Christ suffered his torment in the garden asking that “this cup be taken from me”. Inside the beautiful church is a huge slab of rock thought to have come from the area He lay on as He asked to be spared. This church moved many of us to tears for the first time. The importance of it hitting home, making all the stories we’d heard come to life. After photography we met the group outside and gazed in wonder at the Golden Gate of Jerusalem and the old walls. Up against the old walls are three cemeteries – the Muslim cemetery is the first and is right up against the wall, with the Jewish cemetery second and the Christian cemetery below the other two.
Samir our guide gave us a history of the gate and the importance of the whole area. At this section there was a lot of “tension” and police were much in evidence we were therefore asked to get back on the bus and we went off to the Western Wall (Wailing). It was a relief for us all to sit down as we’d walked so far.
On reaching the Western Wall area another walk upwards was required – they love a step and a hill in Jerusalem!!!!!! This time the walk took us past ruins from Herod’s time. On reaching the wailing wall we find there is segregation – men to the left, women to the right, the group separates we walk through the two entrances, the funny thing is that when you leave the area you ALL go out the same way!!!!!! Anyway, we reach the wall and my first thought is that it is smaller than I first thought, but seemed to get bigger the longer we stood there!!! The history and tears that emanated from this wall was tremendous, the sounds of quiet prayer filling the air, people of all ages, young men walking around with kalashnikovs hanging from their shoulders, stray cats, orthodox jews all mingle. We walk up to the women’s section of the wall (smaller than the mens of course) and post our petitions and feel history wash over us. Many overcome again by the enormity of sadness that fills this area.
We walk back quietly to the coach for our next stop……….yes it is still only Friday and we have covered so much, and it’s not quite lunchtime yet!!!
Once back on the coach Samir gave us information about our next stop – the place is called St Peter’s House, not strictly his home, that was to come later in the week. It is a church over the spot where Peter denied Christ three times before his crucifixion, and actually houses the remains of Caiphas’s house and where prisoners at that time were held. It was a beautiful sunny day, we had beautiful views over the Mount of Olives and Jerusalem but when we entered the church and saw the dungeon pit, we felt cold and emotional. The imagination ran riot as you could see Christ and other prisoners being lowered through a hole in the floor after being beaten and then dropped onto the stone cold floor and left in the dark. The silence was heavy as we took this all in. We were so glad to leave this place of sorrow.
At last it was lunchtime. We were taken to what is called a Kibbutz. This is like no Kibbutz I’ve ever seen in photos, very professional, clean, almost like a motorway service station, they grown their own produce and sell it here, there is no set price so you pay for what you choose to eat. The food was good though and the place was spotless, and our first sight of CHIPS!!!! They don’t seem to use potatoes much in Israel!!!! We enjoyed our break as we had done such a lot walking and seeing the holy places, our minds bursting with information fed to us by Samir. We sat and chatted round the table and had a good laugh as we stuffed ourselves with CHIPS and of course falafael!!!!!
Soon it was time to get back on the coach for our next stop of this leg of the journey round the Mount of Olives area. The Abbey of the Dormition. This is a church which venerates the place where Mary lay for 9 days after her death. Each church we visit seems to be built over ruins of the time so makes for a very interesting visit as we hear the history. Samir as ever a mine of information.
Our next and last stop for the day was the “house” of John the Baptist. Again a large church built over what are reported to be the remains of his parent’s house and where Mary visited his mother Elizabeth to learn about motherhood and to tell her the good news that she herself had. A quite joyous place and again much history to be gleaned, the church itself was rather quaint with old blue and white tiles around the walls, almost Dutch looking.
By now it is past 4.30 and we have been up since 5am. We are flagging and many of us nod off in the coach as we drive back to our convent!!! We flop into our rooms and lay down for an hour, Maureen and I nod off and wake with a start….is it morning or evening????????? Showered and refreshed we go down to meet the gang for our lukewarm evening meal and yes more salad. This is now becoming a running joke and causes much mirth each meal time.
I make tea and we sit upstairs in the lounge area near our rooms and chat about the day and fill in our diaries before we forget!!! Finding this kitchen has become a Godsend for our little group………proper cups of tea each night.
Saturday 22nd November
Again another early start – 4.45am, showering half asleep and stagger down to breakfast. It is still DARK!!! We are leaving at 6.30am for the Via Dolorosa, this is at least an hour and a half walk through the last walk Jesus did bearing his heavy beam. The street itself is winding, up hill, down hill, steps, LOTS of steps!! full of shops not ready to open, people going about their business or to work, and children going to school. But we walk and stop at several stations of the cross to remember and reflect. We walk mostly in companionable silence until each stop. A very moving, sombre and poignant walk at times. One of the stations is where Veronica wipes the weary face of Jesus and we discover Veronica's name may derive from the Latin vera icon, "true image." As you may realise many of the names in the Bible have English leanings….these were not the names they would have used 2000 years ago, (as in Veronica – vera icon), translators throughout time have modernised all English sounding names.
Finally we reach our goal! The church of the Holy Sepulchre, built over Golgotha (or Calvary), is a special place for all pilgrims, it houses many relics from the rock where crucifixions took place, now under protective glass, to the rock where he was laid when taken down from the cross. It is a huge basilica, containing two tomb remains, one where Jesus would have been laid after death and that of Joseph of Arimethea. We spend a great deal of time in this church, emotions run high and many are in tears, it’s that kind of place that just “gets” to you as the enormity of history washes over you.
We had a really special Mass in the small chapel inside the church which in itself was very moving, Father Michael visibly overcome. Inside the chapel is the remains of a pillar used for the flagellation.
After Mass we are then taken on a tour of the church, going down steep steps to the Armenian section, this once housed the remains of the true cross but was lost in a battle with the Crusaders.
Finally we leave this very beautiful, important and emotive place and head for Bethlehem. On the coach Samir fills us in on the political ramifications of the country, the “Separation Walls” that run throughout it and why, the checkpoints we have to go through – for this trip we had to have our passports with us – and how he can visit his family in Bethlehem but they cannot visit him. Very sad situation.
On reaching Bethlehem the crowds are now beginning to arrive, it is still reasonably early, we forget we’ve been on the move since 6.30 and covered a lot of ground. The roads are small and hilly so the coach has to park in the coach park while we all do the walk UP the hill (Marie and Gerry are offered a taxi ride up). Calves aching we finally reach the basilica of the Nativity. We tour the church which again is quite beautiful and emotional for different reasons. We also visit the church of St Catherine (she of the Catherine wheel firework fame!), the church is said to be built on the site of Christ's appearance to St. Catherine of Alexandria and his prediction of her martyrdom (c.310 AD). She is buried on Mt. Sinai. Her death was barbaric.
We also were taken on a tour of Jerome’s room, actually a small cave, (under St Catherine’s) he lived here and transcribed the Bible and never left his room for 34 years except for fresh air, being waited on by two sisters who shopped and cared for him.
After photos we walked back down the hill to the coach and drove to Rachel’s Restaurant for our lunch stop. This poor restaurant didn’t know what hit it. 36 people all piling in NONE of us wanting anymore salad so we started ordering chips anything to stave off the hunger that was hitting us after the busy morning. Samir nearly had a breakdown and went out on to the balcony!!! We did NOT care, we had our chips. Chaos was the word LOLL and the scene was something akin to a school dining room. Samir calmed down after we’d all eaten and soon we were on our way again for the next stop which was the Shepherd’s field, cave and church.
A lovely little chapel inside the cave where shepherds of old would have kept warm while watching their flocks. The fields were below the cave but very poorly cultivated now and certainly no sheep. There was time for a little bit of “enforced” shopping picking out a few bits and bobs at rip off prices to take home. Some prices causing great hilarity as we said “no thanks”!!!
At last our weary bodies were driven back to the convent for our nap, and then dinner. We all met at 7pm for this and after the meal we retired to the lounge again this time with a bottle of wine and sat and chatted. A lovely end to the day.
Sunday 23rd November
A much more relaxed day, a lay in until 7.30!!!! Breakfast (yes lukewarm scrambled egg) at 8am, a much more chilled atmosphere everyone savouring their rest in bed. We are going on a short trip today, local to the area. From the convent “separation wall” where we are hemmed in – this is the sad life of the people – we can see Bethany, and is actually only a couple of minutes walk from the convent BEFORE the wall was erected. Bethany of course is where the friends of Jesus lived – Martha, Mary and Lazarus. Because of this high concrete wall, we have to drive for 40 minutes to get to Bethany. Once there we can see our rooms over the wall!!!!!
A beautiful setting for the house of Mary and Martha, again the church covers remains of the house. We visit the tomb of Lazarus, down steep steps, reminded me of the tombs in Egypt where you had to crouch to get down and try and hold onto the wall so as not to fall. Quite claustrophobic too. But an important site to visit and stoically we did it, 5 at a time because it was such a small area.
This had taken quite a bit of time and we are surprised to find that it is lunchtime. What delights do we have today. Samir had said sandwiches?!!! We all thought of egg mayo or chicken but no………………..salad was the order of the day again or kebab meat! A pleasant enough eaterie though and we sat still feeling relaxed and enjoying each others company.
After lunch some of the group go one way and five of us go another. At the beginning of the trip I had asked if it was possible to visit the holocaust museum of Yad Vashem. Samir thought it unlikely because of the intensity of the trip, but if we really wanted to do it he would organise a taxi for us to do this, he was obviously not happy about this and “forgot” to order any taxi at all, until we said “can we (those of us who want to) do the museum today as it was a quiet day”. He looked exasperated but ordered a taxi to not only take us but wait for two hours to bring us back to the convent that evening. He got us a reduced rate too so it worked out well.
Five of us went to the museum, a moving place of sombre stories, immense sadness and horror, man’s cruelty to man knows no bounds. Shoes, books, photos, belongings all left behind during a time of unimaginable horror. Each photo telling a story that needed no words, we all shuffled around at each section not speaking a word. Quite overcome at times. After a while we finally find the memorial to the children. This is the most harrowing yet profoundly beautiful. One single candle encased in glass with mirrors reflecting the single flame a million times in the darkness, it takes your breath away at the simplicity yet powerful effect it has. As you wander in silence gazing up at the million “stars” created by the flame a child’s name is called out on a loop, it resounds in your head as the loss of a generation hits home. So sad.
With minutes to spare we arrive at our pick up point to find our taxi driver waiting. We had wondered if he would be and we were grateful to see him. He drove us back through the city and finally we reached the rather derelict area the convent was in. It had got dark and we couldn’t get our bearings, and after a couple of wrong turns we finally saw the gates of the convent….huge sighs of relief.
It was up to the rooms to re-pack our suitcases as the next day would see us travelling to Tiberias for the second part of our trip. We freshened up after sitting on our suitcases to close them. Why does this happen? All packed nicely when you leave home, but you just try and repack the same things in the middle of a trip LOLL.
It was an early(ish) night as another long journey with stops en route was the order of the day for Monday.
After breakfast and goodbyes to the lovely smiling Comboni sisters we were off.
Monday 24th November
As we drove out of the gates of the convent at 7.30, waving goodbye to the nuns, we were all overcome with sadness at leaving this great heaving city of complexity, division, tension, politics and religion. Would we ever return to Jerusalem? I hope so.
Our first top en route to Tiberias was Jericho. Not a place I would want to stay in for long. The points of interest here are the Mount of Temptation, where Jesus was tempted by the devil after his 40 odd days of fasting, a massive mound of a dark brooding mountain, which had a monastery built into the rockface and a cable car to get to it and the hotel(!!!) up there, then a 2000 year old sycamore tree behind glass, famed for being the tree that Matthias (or Matthew) the tax collector hid up when Jesus “came to town”. We had Mass in the church and then it was off to Qmran for a trip to place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found and lunch. It had now started to rain heavily.
On reaching Qmran the rain just fell and made walking around the area quite difficult, a very interesting place though with a small walk through museum showing a few of the scrolls and an interesting section on the Essene sect who found them. We had our lunch in the very nice cafeteria and soon it was off to the River Jordan. The Jordan is famous for being where John the Baptist preached and baptised people, especially Christ. Archeological digs have found artefacts which showed that the section of the river we were going to was more important historically than the other section – see later at the end of the diary – but is more widely used.
We reach the Jordan and are dismayed to find it is so dirty with brown mud. The rain falls and falls yet we still stand and wait for our blessing from the river, careful not to open the mouth as Father flicks his olive branch of murky water over us! A strangely poignant place though, and we do feel blessed as we leave the place as a group. We walk back through the rain to the coach for our last stop of the day before reaching the hotel……….the Dead Sea.
We pile out of the coach and decided that with the heavy rain we would just paddle in the sea to say that we’ve been in it. What we did not expect was to have the great laughter filled hour that we did have. In our macs with trousers rolled up we walked through the gritty sand to the sea. I was holding Marie’s arm as we entered the quite balmy and still waters to find there was a slight ledge down into it, you can’t see this of course and we nearly fell backwards, well that set the tone for the laughter. You had to be there to see why this was so funny! We paddled towards a couple of our group and you will see our antics from the photos, paddling, dabbing our faces with the salt water, just having a laugh.
It seemed so incongruous to be standing in the sea while it rained and just laughing.
We finally come out and walk to the open air shower to wash our feet which was full of mud, but oh so clean. Trying to stand on one foot while trying to put a sock on caused more mirth. Finally we were ready to do the walk back up (yes more hilly walking) to where the men were sitting in the dry having a chat and an ice cream. Us girls decided we’d have an ice cream and again fell about laughing at the cost of the thing - $4. We felt like we were at home which is what started the laughing, rain, trousers rolled up, paddling and being ripped off for an ice cream. Hilarious. But boy was that ice cream good!!!
In a happy mood we set off back for the coach and finally our hotel – the Donna Gracia or Fawlty Towers as it became known for the next three days.
On reaching our rooms we badly needed a shower after the salt, muck and mud of the Dead Sea. We laughed as we explored our room. The shower itself points towards the toilet so you have to stand sideways to get wet, there is no “lip” to stop water flowing onto the floor, the curtain has a mind of its own as it wraps itself around your wet body, cold and clammy as it does so. I had three days of fighting with the damn thing.
Maureen rang down to ask if there was a hair dryer available, there are no amenities whatsoever in the room such as tea maker, hair dryer, enough towels, etc. Half an hour later a knock on the door finds a sweet lady with no English outside with two pillows. So Maureen has to do the actions of a hair dryer to make herself understood what she wants. I am on the bed laughing quietly. Finally the girl comes back with a brand new, still in the box hair dryer. We decided this machine was going nowhere, so everytime we went out we hid it LOLLL. Marie has her own stories of asking for something….more towels please, oh yes here are three hangers for you!!! A plug for the sink? Oh yes please have this two point wall plug!!! We had hysterics every meal time with room stories.
We come down for our evening meal and a HOT meal is provided, very nicely cooked too and a few choices, with yes the obligatory salad but you did at least have a choice.
After our meal Marie asked if tea was available, the waiter said “Upstairs” pointing upwards!!! Up we went to the “bar” no one there, no glasses or even drinks on view. Finally someone walked by and we said in unison “excuse me, can we get cups of tea here”? “downstairs” he said. Before he disappeared we shouted “but they told us to come up here”. So he went off and got plastic cups, kettle and tea bags. Finally settling with a hot cuppa we asked the man before he left “ what do we do if we want a bottle of wine to share” he said “well how many will want to have a drink before I open the bar? There has to be enough of you”?!!!!!!!! We looked aghast at each other and burst out laughing. He went off. We drank our tea and decided to go for a walk. A drink seemed to be imperative now!!!! It became our cause for the night.
So off we set and walked from the hotel to the brightly lit streets of Tiberias, much safer than Jerusalem for walking at night. We asked at several cafes if they sold wine, each time having to mime the actions of opening a bottle and drinking, we must have looked like desperate alcoholics in need of a drink!!! To no avail!!!
Finally we are almost giving up when we come across a couple from our group and we join forces. A drink we must have now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Suddenly we spot a Carlsberg sign, I am now ready to even drink a lager!!! We cross the road and sit down in this café, the lady brings us a menu and we said we’d already eaten at the hotel and didn’t require food just a bottle of wine. This did not go down well at all, much discussion at the bar with looks over our way. Finally they come with the bottle of wine which we sat and drank and enjoyed a chat. Then came the time to pay the bill. $50. I nearly fainted. That was the last time we went out!!!!
We were ready for bed that night after our adventures of the day and night.
Tuesday 25th November
Another early start. We now see Samir’s reasoning behind the early starts, we get to places first, no queues and usually get the best of the weather, so we do not grumble as we sleepily shower and breakfast. We leave the hotel at 7.30am for the Sea of Galilee which is a five minute walk from the hotel. This morning though we are having a boat trip on the sea. The sky is blue, the sun is shining and the sea is like glass it is so calm. Half way across after listening to stories of Jesus and the fishermen he made into disciples, that boat stops and the captain comes on and gets everyone up dancing, he has a fine voice as he sings along and gets everyone moving. It was a fabulously entertaining hour and half boat ride and felt very special and at times very moving.
We land at Magdala – the home town of Mary Magdalene. The coach meets us here as we’re heading towards the Mount of Beatitudes. Here is a beautiful oasis of calm and serenity, overlooking the sea of Galilee. Here also Jesus gave his most beautiful sermon. The sun still shone on us and we were privileged to have an outdoor mass. It was very spiritual and moving, the birds sang, the silence was beautiful. It was something really special. We had a bit of free time after this to wander around the chapel and to take photos or just stand in wonderment at the beauty before us.
Then it was back to the coach for one more trip before lunch. This time it was to Caesarea Philippi or Banias here Jesus affirmed to His disciples He is the Christ, the Son of God who would go to the cross after asking them several times who they thought He was. Very high up we climbed and climbed, our coach driver has to be the best there is for his driving skills.
Banias has the remains of the palace of Agrippa, a huge cave where Jesus and the Disciples are believed to have spent the night, and a waterfall which we didn’t see. We spent the time walking around the cave area, the walls of which were a beautiful red colour, almost like Petra. Lots of clambering around this fascinating place, which time seemed to have forgotten and of course photo opportunities!!
Again forgetting we’ve been up with the lark it is lunchtime! We are driven back down to the edge of the Sea of Galilee as our lunch was to be Peter’s Fish in a restaurant overlooking the sea. The meal was light and simple, the fish soft and meaty. There were lots of cats milling around miaowing and one saw that I had “soft touch” written on my forehead as I threw a few scraps down for him/her. I also saved a bit of the fish and took it down to the waters edge away from the restaurant to leave on a stone for the other cats who I might add looked reasonably healthy, I saw on most occasions where there were cats that the staff throw out scraps for them. I enjoyed my moment of solitude and put my hands into the calm still water and reflected. It was quite a magical single moment to savor.
Another day crammed with memories as we take on our next port of call. Tabgha - on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, lies the Church of the Multiplication of Loaves and Fishes, the traditional site of the food multiplication story found in all four gospels. A lovely little church is situated here, we stop for a while taking photos and looking around.
Next we move on to Capernaum which served as Jesus’ home base during his ministry in Galilee. There are many references to this place in the New Testament including the healing of the Centurion’s servant, driving out of a demon, clearing of the temple and Jesus preaching in the synagogue among many. Samir is a mine of information and fills our heads with so many stories.
Historical note: From the 2nd to 4th century there is archeological evidence of a thriving Christian community in Capernaum. After the Arab conquest around 700 CE the town was destroyed and not further inhabited. (thanks Samir!!!!)
Finally we are en route back to the hotel, many of us now nodding off in tiredness.
After our meal we head for the lounge, purchase a bottle of wine and catch up over the days trip. We also are thrilled to report that although we see the ever present scrambled egg for breakfast there is also NORMAL bread for TOAST!!!!!!!!!!! We go to bed happy!!!
Wednesday 26th November
Yet another early start, slightly tinged with sadness as well as tiredness. Sadness that this will be our last full day of trips, our departure looms for the morrow!
After breakfast we are off to Nazareth. A clean, and most beautiful basilica built over the remains of Mary’s parents house. These remains are protected so well you can’t get near them but only look through gates. The church is beautiful with gorgeous stained glass windows, and on two floors it seems, it is huge to walk about. We have Mass upstairs overlooking the remains of the house and the feelings run high as we celebrate in this most special place. Mass as said by Father Michael is again one of simplicity, compassion and relevance.
Joseph’s house is nearby (the remains of) and we visit there with the usual photo opportunities and time to wander.
Back on the coach now to Cana – the Cana of the wedding miracle fame – 4 couples were asked if they’d like to renew their wedding vows in the simple little chapel. Marie and Gerry being one. Father Michael asked all those who were widowed or with different partners to renew their vows in their hearts at the same time. This made a couple of us recently widowed very emotional, Marie looked over at me and both of us fought to contain ourselves especially because of their special moment too. A very special moment.
Samir took us then to another café…..yes more salad, but the word must have got out that the Stanmore lot were coming and there were chips!!!!!! Chips and salad are now our staple diet.
We then moved onwards to our final stop of the day – Mount Tabor. A magnificently, beautiful area, with roads so narrow the coach can’t use them and we are taken up by taxis who drive round the precarious bends with no trouble at all yet having the ability to make some of us scream!!!! On this Mount is the Church of the Transfiguration where Jesus showed himself to two of his most favoured disciples standing in the company of Moses and Elijah and where God called him “son”. The rain had come and gone, leaving a dark brooding sky.
After we toured the church and surroundings some went back to the taxi area for the downward trip and some stayed back to go up on to the balcony, myself included. There we were given the most astounding light show in the sky. Photos show what happened as the sun shone through the dark clouds showering the area with rays of light, expanding from one ray to many, to sun bursting through the darkness as we turned for one last look. We were mesmerised and convinced that God himself had come to say goodbye. Us few who had remained walked back in silence to the taxi area not quite believing what we had just witnessed.
Almost as if to break the spell our taxi drivers drove us down at speed going close to the edge so that us women would scream, which we obliged!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That night at dinner was full of chat about the day and what we had witnessed, we had our last get together before bed and double checking all bags were packed for the morning.
Thursday 27th November
Homeward bound: breakfast wasn’t its usual noisy self, we all felt a tinge of sadness to be leaving this beleaguered country. Jerusalem with its barren landscape, tensions, history and religion, Tiberias in contrast with its lush greenery and less tension. Complex and fascinating, a country I shall never forget and a country I would like to re-visit.
So, after identifying our own cases and making sure our own case is put on the coach we are allowed to walk down to the Sea of Galilee for our departure Mass facing its shores in the Chapel of St Peter built in 1100AD. A very intimate quiet Mass a complete departure from the grandeur of other such services.
In the courtyard afterwards there was a group goodbye, and we gathered in a circle and danced in joy and companionship. Much laughter washed away the tears as we walked to the coach, waved goodbye to Tiberias and its huge lake and made for one final stop. The part of the River Jordan much used for baptisms and was first thought to be the original site until the other one came to light after an archeological dig.
This site was clean and of course had a shop and plenty to walk around. The River was almost turquoise it was so clear. Some took off their shoes and placed their feet in, others just their hands. Father Michael blessed us all again and then after photos it was back on the coach for our final destination………………the Airport!
Once there it was goodbye to Samir and the Captain. Samir of course said we were a special group – of course we were – and enjoyed our company as we did his, a complex man that he was! He shook everyone’s hand as we entered the queue for interminable question and answer session to leave the country! After which we were in the departure lounge, got something to eat and had a quick look at duty free before we were boarding.
After a four hour flight the lights of London came into view and we were home. Tired, weary, elated, ecstatic travellers, emails exchanged, new friends made, tales to keep us going for years all over 8 wonderful days.
Hugs and goodbyes at the baggage claim area and soon I was in a taxi for home to be greeted by two over exuberant dogs who nearly killed each other to get to me. Mummy’s home!!!
Before the diary starts I have to say that if there was a Father Michael in every church, churches wouldn’t be empty for long. He is the kindest, nicest, most compassionate, caring, funny and wise man and brings credit to his priesthood.
Samir is our tour guide, a complex man who obviously “eats” books, knowledgeable, fascinating, infuriating, interesting little man.
Osaman – the Captain – our wonderful driver
Thursday 20th Nov
Work in the morning, but anxious to get away as the trip beckons. Still had packing to finish and last bits sorted before I could leave to stay overnight at Jo’s. After dinner with Liam and a last walk by me for a week for the dogs I said goodbye to Fulham and ready to start the adventure. Arriving at Jo’s after 8pm I settle down at the table for a chinwag with Marie and Gerry before they depart for home. Jo and I take the opportunity to chat until midnight!!!!!!!!! We so seldom get the chance to do this it was great to just catch up on everything. We hit the sack after midnight and all too soon it seemed it was time to get up and be on the road after a shower, a cuppa and a round of toast.
We met the group at William of York Church who were waiting for the coach. Father Michael comes out to say the coach has been delayed due to an accident on the motorway which was holding up traffic. So we sat in Maureen and Pat’s car chatting as Jo left to go home. Sad to see her go and wished she was coming too to complete the gang.
Finally the coach arrives and after loading up we set off for Luton. A reasonably quick drive until we reach the outskirts of the airport where traffic is heavy, yet still we make it in good time. Dragging our cases behind us we find the El Al security desks where an hour of interrogation ensues.
“when did you book this trip”? “do you know anyone in this group?” “did you pack your case yourself”? “where do you live”? “where are you going once in Israel and where will you be staying” and on it went. Then passport checks. Finally reaching the check in desk and a few more questions we are finally through!!! Maureen and I find a place to sit and have breakfast, all the while waiting for Marie and Gerry who’d had problems getting wheelchair assistance and were delayed an extra 40 minutes.
Soon it was time to board the plane which was on time thankfully for the 4hr 15 min flight. The day was feeling long already. We land at Ben Gurion airport at their time of 6.30pm we all feel like we’ve been up 24 hours, tired and needing a wash and a cuppa in no particular order! More passport control and finally into our coach with our guide and driver BUT we had to wait until nearly 8.15 before moving off as two more passengers were meeting our group and their plane wasn’t landing until 7.40!!!! Groans all round, but it’s all part and parcel of travel these days!!! So we sat and got to know each other and had a bit of a laugh.
Finally we set off for Jerusalem. Excitement building although we could see nothing in the darkness. Our guide introduced himself as Samir and our driver as Osaman – but to be called Captain. Samir turned out to be a most knowledgeable guide, full of history information, bible knowledge and a deep love for his torn country, even if a bit biased at times. We arrived at our “hotel” to a hot (well lukewarm really) meal waiting for us, and much needed, although we were fit to drop by now. The hotel is a convent run by the Comboni Sisters a group of smiling nuns who were kind, helpful and so sweet but as we found out as the days went on did not know how to deal with a big crowd of guests so often ran out of food and had to scrabble to get more on the table and did not know how to keep food hot. By the end of our trip we had got used to lukewarm food and slop for cups of tea, until I found the small kitchen where I made tea for us!!!!……….but more of this later.
Friday 21st Nov – a lot is achieved this day as we set of early, most of the sites within reach of the other, a very well planned day for us pilgrims by our guide and driver
Up early for breakfast as a long day ahead of us. As Maureen and I eat and chat over our cornflakes and cold scrambled egg, with no toast, we wonder where Marie and Gerry are. I get anxious and go up to their room. They are not up……gulp. The mobile phone time did not change and Marie thought she had another hour to get ready. After raising the alarm with her I ran back downstairs and got cups of tea and scrambled egg on a tray while they got ready as we by now only had about 20 minutes before we were off. Panic over and we were on the coach with only ten minutes over the time so all was well.
Most of today is spent in or on the Mount of Olive’s area. Our first stop was the church of the Pater Noster, the area believed to have been where Christ taught people the Our Father. A beautiful setting with the prayer in all languages around the wall. We got to know our guide as he walked us round and gave us a potted history. The sun was shining and the general feeling of a good trip ahead settled on us all. After the guided talk we then had time to wander alone taking photos. In this area we went to the Church of the Ascension, where Christ said goodbye to his disciples before ascending to heaven, in the small chapel there is purported to be the imprint of his foot.
After this those of that were able did the very steep walk down following the route of that first Palm Sunday procession when Jesus entered Jerusalem. We sang as we walked, this took our minds off the steep walk! Very heavy strain on the knees and calves!!1 Thankfully we did not have to walk back up!!! We did however continue the walk to a little church overlooking Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock, called Dominus Flevit (means Cry of the Lord). This church commemorates Christ’s tears at the thought of the destruction of Jerusalem, and is shaped like a tear drop, the church was commissioned by the Franciscans who have a hand in many of the churches in Christian Israel. The church is sited near the Garden of Gethsemane.
After a beautiful Mass in this chapel we then walked to the Garden of Gethsemane. Here the trees are 3000 years old, the bark is dead and are held up by poles, new growth from inside sprout out so the olive branches make the trees look alive. Here Pope Francis planted a new olive tree. Here at this important site Christ suffered his torment in the garden asking that “this cup be taken from me”. Inside the beautiful church is a huge slab of rock thought to have come from the area He lay on as He asked to be spared. This church moved many of us to tears for the first time. The importance of it hitting home, making all the stories we’d heard come to life. After photography we met the group outside and gazed in wonder at the Golden Gate of Jerusalem and the old walls. Up against the old walls are three cemeteries – the Muslim cemetery is the first and is right up against the wall, with the Jewish cemetery second and the Christian cemetery below the other two.
Samir our guide gave us a history of the gate and the importance of the whole area. At this section there was a lot of “tension” and police were much in evidence we were therefore asked to get back on the bus and we went off to the Western Wall (Wailing). It was a relief for us all to sit down as we’d walked so far.
On reaching the Western Wall area another walk upwards was required – they love a step and a hill in Jerusalem!!!!!! This time the walk took us past ruins from Herod’s time. On reaching the wailing wall we find there is segregation – men to the left, women to the right, the group separates we walk through the two entrances, the funny thing is that when you leave the area you ALL go out the same way!!!!!! Anyway, we reach the wall and my first thought is that it is smaller than I first thought, but seemed to get bigger the longer we stood there!!! The history and tears that emanated from this wall was tremendous, the sounds of quiet prayer filling the air, people of all ages, young men walking around with kalashnikovs hanging from their shoulders, stray cats, orthodox jews all mingle. We walk up to the women’s section of the wall (smaller than the mens of course) and post our petitions and feel history wash over us. Many overcome again by the enormity of sadness that fills this area.
We walk back quietly to the coach for our next stop……….yes it is still only Friday and we have covered so much, and it’s not quite lunchtime yet!!!
Once back on the coach Samir gave us information about our next stop – the place is called St Peter’s House, not strictly his home, that was to come later in the week. It is a church over the spot where Peter denied Christ three times before his crucifixion, and actually houses the remains of Caiphas’s house and where prisoners at that time were held. It was a beautiful sunny day, we had beautiful views over the Mount of Olives and Jerusalem but when we entered the church and saw the dungeon pit, we felt cold and emotional. The imagination ran riot as you could see Christ and other prisoners being lowered through a hole in the floor after being beaten and then dropped onto the stone cold floor and left in the dark. The silence was heavy as we took this all in. We were so glad to leave this place of sorrow.
At last it was lunchtime. We were taken to what is called a Kibbutz. This is like no Kibbutz I’ve ever seen in photos, very professional, clean, almost like a motorway service station, they grown their own produce and sell it here, there is no set price so you pay for what you choose to eat. The food was good though and the place was spotless, and our first sight of CHIPS!!!! They don’t seem to use potatoes much in Israel!!!! We enjoyed our break as we had done such a lot walking and seeing the holy places, our minds bursting with information fed to us by Samir. We sat and chatted round the table and had a good laugh as we stuffed ourselves with CHIPS and of course falafael!!!!!
Soon it was time to get back on the coach for our next stop of this leg of the journey round the Mount of Olives area. The Abbey of the Dormition. This is a church which venerates the place where Mary lay for 9 days after her death. Each church we visit seems to be built over ruins of the time so makes for a very interesting visit as we hear the history. Samir as ever a mine of information.
Our next and last stop for the day was the “house” of John the Baptist. Again a large church built over what are reported to be the remains of his parent’s house and where Mary visited his mother Elizabeth to learn about motherhood and to tell her the good news that she herself had. A quite joyous place and again much history to be gleaned, the church itself was rather quaint with old blue and white tiles around the walls, almost Dutch looking.
By now it is past 4.30 and we have been up since 5am. We are flagging and many of us nod off in the coach as we drive back to our convent!!! We flop into our rooms and lay down for an hour, Maureen and I nod off and wake with a start….is it morning or evening????????? Showered and refreshed we go down to meet the gang for our lukewarm evening meal and yes more salad. This is now becoming a running joke and causes much mirth each meal time.
I make tea and we sit upstairs in the lounge area near our rooms and chat about the day and fill in our diaries before we forget!!! Finding this kitchen has become a Godsend for our little group………proper cups of tea each night.
Saturday 22nd November
Again another early start – 4.45am, showering half asleep and stagger down to breakfast. It is still DARK!!! We are leaving at 6.30am for the Via Dolorosa, this is at least an hour and a half walk through the last walk Jesus did bearing his heavy beam. The street itself is winding, up hill, down hill, steps, LOTS of steps!! full of shops not ready to open, people going about their business or to work, and children going to school. But we walk and stop at several stations of the cross to remember and reflect. We walk mostly in companionable silence until each stop. A very moving, sombre and poignant walk at times. One of the stations is where Veronica wipes the weary face of Jesus and we discover Veronica's name may derive from the Latin vera icon, "true image." As you may realise many of the names in the Bible have English leanings….these were not the names they would have used 2000 years ago, (as in Veronica – vera icon), translators throughout time have modernised all English sounding names.
Finally we reach our goal! The church of the Holy Sepulchre, built over Golgotha (or Calvary), is a special place for all pilgrims, it houses many relics from the rock where crucifixions took place, now under protective glass, to the rock where he was laid when taken down from the cross. It is a huge basilica, containing two tomb remains, one where Jesus would have been laid after death and that of Joseph of Arimethea. We spend a great deal of time in this church, emotions run high and many are in tears, it’s that kind of place that just “gets” to you as the enormity of history washes over you.
We had a really special Mass in the small chapel inside the church which in itself was very moving, Father Michael visibly overcome. Inside the chapel is the remains of a pillar used for the flagellation.
After Mass we are then taken on a tour of the church, going down steep steps to the Armenian section, this once housed the remains of the true cross but was lost in a battle with the Crusaders.
Finally we leave this very beautiful, important and emotive place and head for Bethlehem. On the coach Samir fills us in on the political ramifications of the country, the “Separation Walls” that run throughout it and why, the checkpoints we have to go through – for this trip we had to have our passports with us – and how he can visit his family in Bethlehem but they cannot visit him. Very sad situation.
On reaching Bethlehem the crowds are now beginning to arrive, it is still reasonably early, we forget we’ve been on the move since 6.30 and covered a lot of ground. The roads are small and hilly so the coach has to park in the coach park while we all do the walk UP the hill (Marie and Gerry are offered a taxi ride up). Calves aching we finally reach the basilica of the Nativity. We tour the church which again is quite beautiful and emotional for different reasons. We also visit the church of St Catherine (she of the Catherine wheel firework fame!), the church is said to be built on the site of Christ's appearance to St. Catherine of Alexandria and his prediction of her martyrdom (c.310 AD). She is buried on Mt. Sinai. Her death was barbaric.
We also were taken on a tour of Jerome’s room, actually a small cave, (under St Catherine’s) he lived here and transcribed the Bible and never left his room for 34 years except for fresh air, being waited on by two sisters who shopped and cared for him.
After photos we walked back down the hill to the coach and drove to Rachel’s Restaurant for our lunch stop. This poor restaurant didn’t know what hit it. 36 people all piling in NONE of us wanting anymore salad so we started ordering chips anything to stave off the hunger that was hitting us after the busy morning. Samir nearly had a breakdown and went out on to the balcony!!! We did NOT care, we had our chips. Chaos was the word LOLL and the scene was something akin to a school dining room. Samir calmed down after we’d all eaten and soon we were on our way again for the next stop which was the Shepherd’s field, cave and church.
A lovely little chapel inside the cave where shepherds of old would have kept warm while watching their flocks. The fields were below the cave but very poorly cultivated now and certainly no sheep. There was time for a little bit of “enforced” shopping picking out a few bits and bobs at rip off prices to take home. Some prices causing great hilarity as we said “no thanks”!!!
At last our weary bodies were driven back to the convent for our nap, and then dinner. We all met at 7pm for this and after the meal we retired to the lounge again this time with a bottle of wine and sat and chatted. A lovely end to the day.
Sunday 23rd November
A much more relaxed day, a lay in until 7.30!!!! Breakfast (yes lukewarm scrambled egg) at 8am, a much more chilled atmosphere everyone savouring their rest in bed. We are going on a short trip today, local to the area. From the convent “separation wall” where we are hemmed in – this is the sad life of the people – we can see Bethany, and is actually only a couple of minutes walk from the convent BEFORE the wall was erected. Bethany of course is where the friends of Jesus lived – Martha, Mary and Lazarus. Because of this high concrete wall, we have to drive for 40 minutes to get to Bethany. Once there we can see our rooms over the wall!!!!!
A beautiful setting for the house of Mary and Martha, again the church covers remains of the house. We visit the tomb of Lazarus, down steep steps, reminded me of the tombs in Egypt where you had to crouch to get down and try and hold onto the wall so as not to fall. Quite claustrophobic too. But an important site to visit and stoically we did it, 5 at a time because it was such a small area.
This had taken quite a bit of time and we are surprised to find that it is lunchtime. What delights do we have today. Samir had said sandwiches?!!! We all thought of egg mayo or chicken but no………………..salad was the order of the day again or kebab meat! A pleasant enough eaterie though and we sat still feeling relaxed and enjoying each others company.
After lunch some of the group go one way and five of us go another. At the beginning of the trip I had asked if it was possible to visit the holocaust museum of Yad Vashem. Samir thought it unlikely because of the intensity of the trip, but if we really wanted to do it he would organise a taxi for us to do this, he was obviously not happy about this and “forgot” to order any taxi at all, until we said “can we (those of us who want to) do the museum today as it was a quiet day”. He looked exasperated but ordered a taxi to not only take us but wait for two hours to bring us back to the convent that evening. He got us a reduced rate too so it worked out well.
Five of us went to the museum, a moving place of sombre stories, immense sadness and horror, man’s cruelty to man knows no bounds. Shoes, books, photos, belongings all left behind during a time of unimaginable horror. Each photo telling a story that needed no words, we all shuffled around at each section not speaking a word. Quite overcome at times. After a while we finally find the memorial to the children. This is the most harrowing yet profoundly beautiful. One single candle encased in glass with mirrors reflecting the single flame a million times in the darkness, it takes your breath away at the simplicity yet powerful effect it has. As you wander in silence gazing up at the million “stars” created by the flame a child’s name is called out on a loop, it resounds in your head as the loss of a generation hits home. So sad.
With minutes to spare we arrive at our pick up point to find our taxi driver waiting. We had wondered if he would be and we were grateful to see him. He drove us back through the city and finally we reached the rather derelict area the convent was in. It had got dark and we couldn’t get our bearings, and after a couple of wrong turns we finally saw the gates of the convent….huge sighs of relief.
It was up to the rooms to re-pack our suitcases as the next day would see us travelling to Tiberias for the second part of our trip. We freshened up after sitting on our suitcases to close them. Why does this happen? All packed nicely when you leave home, but you just try and repack the same things in the middle of a trip LOLL.
It was an early(ish) night as another long journey with stops en route was the order of the day for Monday.
After breakfast and goodbyes to the lovely smiling Comboni sisters we were off.
Monday 24th November
As we drove out of the gates of the convent at 7.30, waving goodbye to the nuns, we were all overcome with sadness at leaving this great heaving city of complexity, division, tension, politics and religion. Would we ever return to Jerusalem? I hope so.
Our first top en route to Tiberias was Jericho. Not a place I would want to stay in for long. The points of interest here are the Mount of Temptation, where Jesus was tempted by the devil after his 40 odd days of fasting, a massive mound of a dark brooding mountain, which had a monastery built into the rockface and a cable car to get to it and the hotel(!!!) up there, then a 2000 year old sycamore tree behind glass, famed for being the tree that Matthias (or Matthew) the tax collector hid up when Jesus “came to town”. We had Mass in the church and then it was off to Qmran for a trip to place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found and lunch. It had now started to rain heavily.
On reaching Qmran the rain just fell and made walking around the area quite difficult, a very interesting place though with a small walk through museum showing a few of the scrolls and an interesting section on the Essene sect who found them. We had our lunch in the very nice cafeteria and soon it was off to the River Jordan. The Jordan is famous for being where John the Baptist preached and baptised people, especially Christ. Archeological digs have found artefacts which showed that the section of the river we were going to was more important historically than the other section – see later at the end of the diary – but is more widely used.
We reach the Jordan and are dismayed to find it is so dirty with brown mud. The rain falls and falls yet we still stand and wait for our blessing from the river, careful not to open the mouth as Father flicks his olive branch of murky water over us! A strangely poignant place though, and we do feel blessed as we leave the place as a group. We walk back through the rain to the coach for our last stop of the day before reaching the hotel……….the Dead Sea.
We pile out of the coach and decided that with the heavy rain we would just paddle in the sea to say that we’ve been in it. What we did not expect was to have the great laughter filled hour that we did have. In our macs with trousers rolled up we walked through the gritty sand to the sea. I was holding Marie’s arm as we entered the quite balmy and still waters to find there was a slight ledge down into it, you can’t see this of course and we nearly fell backwards, well that set the tone for the laughter. You had to be there to see why this was so funny! We paddled towards a couple of our group and you will see our antics from the photos, paddling, dabbing our faces with the salt water, just having a laugh.
It seemed so incongruous to be standing in the sea while it rained and just laughing.
We finally come out and walk to the open air shower to wash our feet which was full of mud, but oh so clean. Trying to stand on one foot while trying to put a sock on caused more mirth. Finally we were ready to do the walk back up (yes more hilly walking) to where the men were sitting in the dry having a chat and an ice cream. Us girls decided we’d have an ice cream and again fell about laughing at the cost of the thing - $4. We felt like we were at home which is what started the laughing, rain, trousers rolled up, paddling and being ripped off for an ice cream. Hilarious. But boy was that ice cream good!!!
In a happy mood we set off back for the coach and finally our hotel – the Donna Gracia or Fawlty Towers as it became known for the next three days.
On reaching our rooms we badly needed a shower after the salt, muck and mud of the Dead Sea. We laughed as we explored our room. The shower itself points towards the toilet so you have to stand sideways to get wet, there is no “lip” to stop water flowing onto the floor, the curtain has a mind of its own as it wraps itself around your wet body, cold and clammy as it does so. I had three days of fighting with the damn thing.
Maureen rang down to ask if there was a hair dryer available, there are no amenities whatsoever in the room such as tea maker, hair dryer, enough towels, etc. Half an hour later a knock on the door finds a sweet lady with no English outside with two pillows. So Maureen has to do the actions of a hair dryer to make herself understood what she wants. I am on the bed laughing quietly. Finally the girl comes back with a brand new, still in the box hair dryer. We decided this machine was going nowhere, so everytime we went out we hid it LOLLL. Marie has her own stories of asking for something….more towels please, oh yes here are three hangers for you!!! A plug for the sink? Oh yes please have this two point wall plug!!! We had hysterics every meal time with room stories.
We come down for our evening meal and a HOT meal is provided, very nicely cooked too and a few choices, with yes the obligatory salad but you did at least have a choice.
After our meal Marie asked if tea was available, the waiter said “Upstairs” pointing upwards!!! Up we went to the “bar” no one there, no glasses or even drinks on view. Finally someone walked by and we said in unison “excuse me, can we get cups of tea here”? “downstairs” he said. Before he disappeared we shouted “but they told us to come up here”. So he went off and got plastic cups, kettle and tea bags. Finally settling with a hot cuppa we asked the man before he left “ what do we do if we want a bottle of wine to share” he said “well how many will want to have a drink before I open the bar? There has to be enough of you”?!!!!!!!! We looked aghast at each other and burst out laughing. He went off. We drank our tea and decided to go for a walk. A drink seemed to be imperative now!!!! It became our cause for the night.
So off we set and walked from the hotel to the brightly lit streets of Tiberias, much safer than Jerusalem for walking at night. We asked at several cafes if they sold wine, each time having to mime the actions of opening a bottle and drinking, we must have looked like desperate alcoholics in need of a drink!!! To no avail!!!
Finally we are almost giving up when we come across a couple from our group and we join forces. A drink we must have now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Suddenly we spot a Carlsberg sign, I am now ready to even drink a lager!!! We cross the road and sit down in this café, the lady brings us a menu and we said we’d already eaten at the hotel and didn’t require food just a bottle of wine. This did not go down well at all, much discussion at the bar with looks over our way. Finally they come with the bottle of wine which we sat and drank and enjoyed a chat. Then came the time to pay the bill. $50. I nearly fainted. That was the last time we went out!!!!
We were ready for bed that night after our adventures of the day and night.
Tuesday 25th November
Another early start. We now see Samir’s reasoning behind the early starts, we get to places first, no queues and usually get the best of the weather, so we do not grumble as we sleepily shower and breakfast. We leave the hotel at 7.30am for the Sea of Galilee which is a five minute walk from the hotel. This morning though we are having a boat trip on the sea. The sky is blue, the sun is shining and the sea is like glass it is so calm. Half way across after listening to stories of Jesus and the fishermen he made into disciples, that boat stops and the captain comes on and gets everyone up dancing, he has a fine voice as he sings along and gets everyone moving. It was a fabulously entertaining hour and half boat ride and felt very special and at times very moving.
We land at Magdala – the home town of Mary Magdalene. The coach meets us here as we’re heading towards the Mount of Beatitudes. Here is a beautiful oasis of calm and serenity, overlooking the sea of Galilee. Here also Jesus gave his most beautiful sermon. The sun still shone on us and we were privileged to have an outdoor mass. It was very spiritual and moving, the birds sang, the silence was beautiful. It was something really special. We had a bit of free time after this to wander around the chapel and to take photos or just stand in wonderment at the beauty before us.
Then it was back to the coach for one more trip before lunch. This time it was to Caesarea Philippi or Banias here Jesus affirmed to His disciples He is the Christ, the Son of God who would go to the cross after asking them several times who they thought He was. Very high up we climbed and climbed, our coach driver has to be the best there is for his driving skills.
Banias has the remains of the palace of Agrippa, a huge cave where Jesus and the Disciples are believed to have spent the night, and a waterfall which we didn’t see. We spent the time walking around the cave area, the walls of which were a beautiful red colour, almost like Petra. Lots of clambering around this fascinating place, which time seemed to have forgotten and of course photo opportunities!!
Again forgetting we’ve been up with the lark it is lunchtime! We are driven back down to the edge of the Sea of Galilee as our lunch was to be Peter’s Fish in a restaurant overlooking the sea. The meal was light and simple, the fish soft and meaty. There were lots of cats milling around miaowing and one saw that I had “soft touch” written on my forehead as I threw a few scraps down for him/her. I also saved a bit of the fish and took it down to the waters edge away from the restaurant to leave on a stone for the other cats who I might add looked reasonably healthy, I saw on most occasions where there were cats that the staff throw out scraps for them. I enjoyed my moment of solitude and put my hands into the calm still water and reflected. It was quite a magical single moment to savor.
Another day crammed with memories as we take on our next port of call. Tabgha - on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, lies the Church of the Multiplication of Loaves and Fishes, the traditional site of the food multiplication story found in all four gospels. A lovely little church is situated here, we stop for a while taking photos and looking around.
Next we move on to Capernaum which served as Jesus’ home base during his ministry in Galilee. There are many references to this place in the New Testament including the healing of the Centurion’s servant, driving out of a demon, clearing of the temple and Jesus preaching in the synagogue among many. Samir is a mine of information and fills our heads with so many stories.
Historical note: From the 2nd to 4th century there is archeological evidence of a thriving Christian community in Capernaum. After the Arab conquest around 700 CE the town was destroyed and not further inhabited. (thanks Samir!!!!)
Finally we are en route back to the hotel, many of us now nodding off in tiredness.
After our meal we head for the lounge, purchase a bottle of wine and catch up over the days trip. We also are thrilled to report that although we see the ever present scrambled egg for breakfast there is also NORMAL bread for TOAST!!!!!!!!!!! We go to bed happy!!!
Wednesday 26th November
Yet another early start, slightly tinged with sadness as well as tiredness. Sadness that this will be our last full day of trips, our departure looms for the morrow!
After breakfast we are off to Nazareth. A clean, and most beautiful basilica built over the remains of Mary’s parents house. These remains are protected so well you can’t get near them but only look through gates. The church is beautiful with gorgeous stained glass windows, and on two floors it seems, it is huge to walk about. We have Mass upstairs overlooking the remains of the house and the feelings run high as we celebrate in this most special place. Mass as said by Father Michael is again one of simplicity, compassion and relevance.
Joseph’s house is nearby (the remains of) and we visit there with the usual photo opportunities and time to wander.
Back on the coach now to Cana – the Cana of the wedding miracle fame – 4 couples were asked if they’d like to renew their wedding vows in the simple little chapel. Marie and Gerry being one. Father Michael asked all those who were widowed or with different partners to renew their vows in their hearts at the same time. This made a couple of us recently widowed very emotional, Marie looked over at me and both of us fought to contain ourselves especially because of their special moment too. A very special moment.
Samir took us then to another café…..yes more salad, but the word must have got out that the Stanmore lot were coming and there were chips!!!!!! Chips and salad are now our staple diet.
We then moved onwards to our final stop of the day – Mount Tabor. A magnificently, beautiful area, with roads so narrow the coach can’t use them and we are taken up by taxis who drive round the precarious bends with no trouble at all yet having the ability to make some of us scream!!!! On this Mount is the Church of the Transfiguration where Jesus showed himself to two of his most favoured disciples standing in the company of Moses and Elijah and where God called him “son”. The rain had come and gone, leaving a dark brooding sky.
After we toured the church and surroundings some went back to the taxi area for the downward trip and some stayed back to go up on to the balcony, myself included. There we were given the most astounding light show in the sky. Photos show what happened as the sun shone through the dark clouds showering the area with rays of light, expanding from one ray to many, to sun bursting through the darkness as we turned for one last look. We were mesmerised and convinced that God himself had come to say goodbye. Us few who had remained walked back in silence to the taxi area not quite believing what we had just witnessed.
Almost as if to break the spell our taxi drivers drove us down at speed going close to the edge so that us women would scream, which we obliged!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That night at dinner was full of chat about the day and what we had witnessed, we had our last get together before bed and double checking all bags were packed for the morning.
Thursday 27th November
Homeward bound: breakfast wasn’t its usual noisy self, we all felt a tinge of sadness to be leaving this beleaguered country. Jerusalem with its barren landscape, tensions, history and religion, Tiberias in contrast with its lush greenery and less tension. Complex and fascinating, a country I shall never forget and a country I would like to re-visit.
So, after identifying our own cases and making sure our own case is put on the coach we are allowed to walk down to the Sea of Galilee for our departure Mass facing its shores in the Chapel of St Peter built in 1100AD. A very intimate quiet Mass a complete departure from the grandeur of other such services.
In the courtyard afterwards there was a group goodbye, and we gathered in a circle and danced in joy and companionship. Much laughter washed away the tears as we walked to the coach, waved goodbye to Tiberias and its huge lake and made for one final stop. The part of the River Jordan much used for baptisms and was first thought to be the original site until the other one came to light after an archeological dig.
This site was clean and of course had a shop and plenty to walk around. The River was almost turquoise it was so clear. Some took off their shoes and placed their feet in, others just their hands. Father Michael blessed us all again and then after photos it was back on the coach for our final destination………………the Airport!
Once there it was goodbye to Samir and the Captain. Samir of course said we were a special group – of course we were – and enjoyed our company as we did his, a complex man that he was! He shook everyone’s hand as we entered the queue for interminable question and answer session to leave the country! After which we were in the departure lounge, got something to eat and had a quick look at duty free before we were boarding.
After a four hour flight the lights of London came into view and we were home. Tired, weary, elated, ecstatic travellers, emails exchanged, new friends made, tales to keep us going for years all over 8 wonderful days.
Hugs and goodbyes at the baggage claim area and soon I was in a taxi for home to be greeted by two over exuberant dogs who nearly killed each other to get to me. Mummy’s home!!!